KENZO at Pitti
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim has presented their 3rd Menswear collection
at Pitti Immagine Uomo yesterday at the Mercato Centrale in Florence.
“Carol and I fly so much, and we always look out the window”
Leon explained after their Fall ’13 show, held on the ghostly,
smoke-filled second story of Florence’s Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo,
“I think there’s a moment of that we wanted to capture.”
They spun a myth about sky-bound gods and goddesses
and the mortal pilots whose line of duty sent them into the ether,
and called the offering The Jungle of the Sky.
Jungle has loomed large over Kenzo as the two designers has rebranded it,
taking Kenzo Takada‘s original seventies concept of Jungle Jap using animal prints,
tiger heads, and a safari-ized version of street wear.
“We wanted to identify with the romantic side of Kenzo,
and show a different side of Kenzo Takada that really for us
feels like another part of the story that we should be telling”
The new silhouette was superheroic: larger on top, with round-shouldered
sweaters and spongy, A-line coats, tapered and fitted pants below.
The new fabrics,
emphasized technical nylon, giving pieces a future-world sheen.
“When we were thinking about these warriors and goddesses,
they were all kind of powerful feeling, and the shapes gave us that,”
Power and protection were the messages, too, of the bulletproof-looking
backpacks designed in collaboration with Boblbee.
Even the jewelry and fixings designed by Delfina Delettrez signaled defense.
(by Matthew Schneier)